The short answer: A good custom hair oil has three layers. Base oils make up most of the bottle and set how light or rich it feels. Active oils are a smaller share that targets your goal. Essential oils are optional, for scent, and should total 1% or less. Add a little vitamin E to keep it fresh. Pick bases for your hair's weight, actives for your goal, and you're done.
The three layers
| Layer | Share of bottle | Job | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base oils | Most of it | Texture and feel | Jojoba, grapeseed, argan, olive |
| Active oils | A smaller share you choose | Targets your goal | Castor, black seed, baobab, marula |
| Essential oils | 1% or less combined | Scent | Rosemary, lavender, sweet orange |
| Vitamin E | About 0.5% | Keeps oils fresh | Added to every Amber & Oil bottle |
For a deeper look at the difference between carrier and essential oils, read Carrier Oils vs Essential Oils.
Step 1: Choose bases for your hair's weight
- Fine or oily: squalane, grapeseed, jojoba
- Medium: argan, sweet almond, camellia
- Thick, coily or very dry: olive, virgin coconut
Not sure? Our light vs. heavy oils guide and porosity guide will help.
Step 2: Choose actives for your goal
- Scalp care: black seed, pumpkin seed, neem
- Thickness and cushion: castor, Jamaican black castor
- Softness and curls: baobab, avocado
- Shine: marula, amla
Step 3: Add scent (optional)
Up to two essential oils are included. Keep the total at or below 1%. Avoid rosemary, peppermint and clary sage during pregnancy, and keep lemongrass and peppermint low. See how to dilute essential oils.
Five starter recipes
| Goal | Bases | Actives | Scent |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry scalp | Jojoba, fractionated coconut | Black seed, pumpkin seed | Lavender |
| Fine hair shine | Squalane, jojoba | Marula | Bergamot FCF |
| 4C sealing | Olive, virgin coconut | Jamaican black castor, baobab | Sweet orange |
| After bleach | Camellia, argan | Marula, baobab | None |
| Rosemary scalp oil | Jojoba, grapeseed | Castor, pumpkin seed | Rosemary |
How the Amber & Oil builder works
In the Custom Hair Blend, up to 3 base oils, 4 actives and 2 essential oils are included in the price. On 4 oz and 8 oz bottles you can go up to 5 bases, 5 actives and 4 essential oils as extras; a 1 oz bottle holds no extras. You choose how much of the bottle your actives take. We set exact ratios so every oil stays within a safe amount, add vitamin E, blend it by hand and print your formula on the label.
Want a head start? Begin with a Signature Blend and adjust it.
FAQ
How many oils should a hair oil have?
Three to six is plenty. More oils don't mean better results; the right ones do.
What is a safe amount of essential oil in hair oil?
For leave-on use, 1% or less of the bottle combined is a gentle, widely used level.
Can I mix heavy and light oils?
Yes. Mixing is how you tune the feel, like adding a little castor to a jojoba base.